Thursday, June 10, 2010

Guatemala, Trip Number Three

Day One

I, the incorrigible procrastinator, finished packing two hours before having to wake up and drive to the airport. It's still very painful to swallow. I've not fully recovered from an ear infection/strep throat.

My sister and father drop me off at John F. Kennedy International Airport, and begin their drive to Philadelphia. Stephanie's passport had expired, and in order to meet me in Guatemala two days later, she had to schedule an emergency appointment in Philadelphia.

It's 4 AM and I'm in line at JFK. As I breeze through the self check-in machine, I watch other people struggle. I decide that the movement towards complete automation can only really work with younger generations that have been raised with much exposure to computers. I'm relieved to see there are (human) airport employees there to help.

Flying is a classist endeavor. You become very aware of your socio-economic status. Business and First class always board first, and their section is separated by a curtain on the plane for privacy. Is the curtain there so that we - the main cabin - can't see their enormous leather seats, their free blankets, the cocktails that are constantly being refilled? Or is it so that the First Class isn't bothered by us?

The system is brilliantly designed for you to be tempted to upgrade and pay exorbitant prices because you want to be treated nicely, and given special privileges. We're used to more egalitarian services...or...just used to being on the other side of special treatment.

After a brief wait in the Miami airport, I boarded my connecting flight and a few hours later arrived in Guatemala City. I walked outside and didn't see my hostel's shuttle bus, so I decided to walk to the hostel with my big hiking bag on my back. A young redhead named "Shai" stopped me and asked - in English - if I was local. I fought back a giant grin. She was standing next to a Guatemalan man who drove a shuttle bus to Antigua.

"No, but I speak Spanish, if that's what you need," I said.

But she was just concerned about the safety of taking one of the shuttle buses. She actually asked me if she would get robbed on the bus. I told her I didn't think so, but how could I guarantee that? Overall, common sense tells you that you'll be charged extra for the convenience of being picked up right at the airport and dropped off right at the door of your hotel in Antigua. Common sense also tells you that people would have complained if the buses were dangerous.

She thanked me and I turned toward the street and walked to my hostel. It was no easy feat. The bags were heavy and it was hot. I was slightly nervous that I was being too ambitious and careless. Although I was an easy target - tired and alone, and clearly carrying all of my things - including money - I knew it was a seven minute walk, and I figured it would be a very public crime to rob me in the middle of the day.

I arrived at Hostal Los Volcanes safely and the receptionist was surprised that I had walked. I settled into my private room with bathroom (yes!) and rested, then purchased a mobile phone, sent two quick emails (on a computer with no working mouse) and proceeded to take notes on the project's budget. I made a few important calls, and then began to stress out about my first mistake as the trip leader. I did not call the hardware stores ahead of time to figure out the exact cost of the stoves before leaving. It looked like I would go way over budget.

The man at the hardware store (Juan Carlos) suggested I look for alternative transport, since the cost of delivering the supplies was so high. I called Ramiro, one of the campesinos from the community of Chichicaste. He said he would find a driver and a truck. I felt temporary relief at the possibility of finding a solution, but I was immobilized for a good twenty minutes, disappointed in myself. Conscious of the very tight budget, I decided not to eat dinner. I wasn't that hungry, and I wanted to practice being hungry. (I realize how silly that sounds.)

I did a lot of reading on the history of CONIC (Coordinadora Nacional Indigena y Campesina), the NGO that we work with on these Guatemala delegations, and admired the work it had done, especially in historical context.

Reading soon led me straight to slumber.

Coming soon: Days Two and Three - Meeting with NGO and The Arrival of Participants

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